I found several hoodie sweater patterns for the 18-inch dolls and the patterns were nice except for the size of the hoodie. It would never hold all the hair of an 18-inch doll. The doll has so much hair. So I first developed the hoodie sweater with this pattern. Then I decided to put a new spin in the sweater by adding cables. That will be another post, coming soon. For now, this is the sweater that is just beaded.
This sweater is made especially for 18-inch dolls. I guess you could call it a coat sweater. I have checked the pattern several times and hope it has no problems. The body of the sweater can be made long or short.
The sweater is knitted in one unit. The pattern begins with the hoodie. It is knitted from the top to the bottom. The underside of the sleeves have to be stitched and the hoodie has to be stitched at the top. It is an easy-to-medium knitting project without the beading. The sweater can be knitted without the beads.
Different types of yarn can be used to make this sweater. I have used medium worsted weight, light worsted (DK), and sport-weight. I have also used baby weight yarn but not the super fine fingering yarn. The size of the yarn will to a degree determine the size of the sweater.
The beads I use are the Wee pony beads, which are sometimes called micro pony beads. They are
5 x 3 mm. They are difficult to find. When I find them, I order them even though I might not need them at the time. The 6 x 9 mm beads are easy to find but they are too large for this project. Sometimes I find the 5 x 3 mm pony beads at Etsy or Ebay. (See the notation in the resource section below. I was unable at this time of writing to find the opaque wee pony beads on line, but then I found a package of them in Michaels. The ones in the resource section are translucent.) Sometimes I purchase them from the online Jolly Store.
This sweater has beads knitted into the yoke of the sweater. There are several ways to bead with yarn. The particular method I used with this sweater is the stringing method. This method is shown in this video. Here is another method for stringing beads using a dental floss threader. Yes, use a floss threader that is purchased in any oral health section of drug store, big box store, etc. Watch how it is done on this video -- so easy!. I use a needle threader to string the beads before casting on. The same method as the dental floss threader is used.
The beads can also be added with a crochet hook. I don't use that method for this sweater but you can if you like to use that method. That method is shown in this video. I will be using the bead-crochet hook method in the next blog with a sweater with cables.
Update: As of August 18, 2018, I found the 5x3 wee beads at this website.
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| This is a shorter version of the sweater. The beads are easily seen on the yoke of the sweater. This is the sweater I learned how to bead while knitting. Why white beads? Wee pony beads do not come in any shade of brown. |
Linda’s Beaded Hoodie for 18-inch Doll
Abbreviations:
K – knit yo - yarnover
P – purl pm – place marker
Inc – increase RS - right side
Dec - decrease WS - wrong side
Needles #5 and #6
Use #3 yarn or light #4. Baby yarn can also be used but the sweater will be a little smaller.
Place 44 wee pony beads on the yarn. All the beads may not be used. Those not used are pushed down the yarn as you are knitting. Should help be needed with loading the beads and the process of the beading while knitting, use the links given in the introduction for help. Either method, loading beads on the yarn or loading each bead with a crochet hook, can be used.
Hoodie
With #6 needles (or circular needle), cast on 71 stitches.
Row 1: Knit 35, purl 1, Knit 35 (The purl stitch helps the hoodie fold in half.)
Row 2: Knit 4, purl 31, Knit 1, Purl 31, Knit 4
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for total of about 38 rows, or 5 ½ inches (14cm)
Neck
Decrease the following so that there are 44 stitches on needle.
Knit 4, decrease 13 times on next 26 stitches, knit 5, decrease in next stitch, knit 4, decrease 13 times on next 26 stitches,, knit 4.
Change to #5 needles in next row.
Knit 4, work in ribbing stitch, K1P1 in the 36 stitches, knit 4. Repeat for 4 more rows.
Change to #6 needle in next row.
Yoke
Row 1: Knit across row.
Row 2: Knit 4, (right front band as wearing it), purl across to last 4
stitches, knit 4 (left front band)
Row 3: Knit 4, knit 2, *inc in next stitch, k2, repeat from * across to last
5 stitches. Inc in next stitch, knit last 4 stitches (56 stitches)
Row 4: (wrong side) Knit 4, pull up a bead to the needle on right hand,
knit 4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, end with pull up bead and knit 4.
Row 5: Knit row
Row 6: Repeat row 2 (yoke)
Row 7: Knit 4, *inc in next stitch, k3, repeat from *, across row to last 8
stitches , inc in next stitch, knit 7 (68 stitches).
Row 8: (wrong side) Knit 4, knit 2, *pull up a bead to the needle on right
hand, knit 5, bead*, repeat from*, knit last 7 stitches.
Row 9: Knit row
Row 10: Knit 2, yo, knit 2 together (buttonhole), purl across to last 4
stitches, knit 4 (left front band)
Row 11: Knit 5, inc in next stitch, * Knit 4, increase in next stitch, repeat
from* across row to last 7 stitches, end knit 7 (80 stitches)
The placement of beads on this next row are in the same position as the first row of beads. Because of increased stitches in rows 10 and 14, the beads could be slipped after the 6 or 7 knitted stitch. The total number of stitches in row 15 will still be 80 stitches. In most cases, the bead can be slipped after 6 knitted stitches but can be the 7thknitted stitch if needed.
Row 12: (wrong side) K4, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 6, slip bead, knit 4. (The number of stitches on the needle should still be 80).
There will probably be extra beads on the yarn. Keep pushing them away as you knit. It is better to have more beads than not enough. It is difficult to add more beads on the yarn once knitting is started. The beads can be removed after the first sleeve is completed.
If the beads are not wanted, the following changes in the rows can
be done this way for the yoke:
Row 4: Repeat row 2 of yoke without beads
Row 8: Repeat row 2 of yoke without beads
Row 12: Repeat row 2 of yoke without beads
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Row 13: Knit row
Row 14: Repeat row 2 (yoke)
Row 15: K 4, inc in next stitch, *k 5, inc in next stitch, repeat from * to last
9 stitches. Knit 4, inc one stitch and end K 4. (93 stitches)
Row 16: Repeat row 2 (yoke)
Row 17: Knit row
Row 18: Repeat row 2 (yoke)
Dividing Stitches for Fronts, Sleeves, and Back
Row 19: (RS) Place markers and increase as directed: K 14, inc stitch, pm, inc stitch,
K 16, inc stitch, pm, inc stitch, K25, inc stitch, pm, inc stitch, K
K 16, inc stitch, pm, inc stitch, K25, inc stitch, pm, inc stitch, K
16, inc stitch, pm, inc stitch, K 14 (101 stitches - 16/20/29/20/16)
Row 20: Knit 2, yo, k 2 together (buttonhole), p 12, slip marker, p 20, slip
marker, purl 29, slip marker, purl 20, slip marker, p 12, knit 4.
Row 21: Knit across increasing in the stitch before and after each marker.
(109 stitches - 17/22/31/22/17)
Row 22: Knit 4, purl 13, slip marker, purl 22, slip marker, purl 31, slip marker, purl
22, slip marker, purl 13, knit 4.
22, slip marker, purl 13, knit 4.
17 / 22 / 31 / 22 / 17= 109 (the correct number of stitches between markers)
Row 23: Knit 16 , increase stitch, slip marker, increase stitch, knit 20, increase stitch, slip marker (no increase), knit 31, (no increase) slip marker, increase stitch, slip marker, knit 20, increase stitch, slip marker, increase stitch, knit 16.
18/24/31/24/18 =115 (the correct number of stitches between markers)
Sleeves
The sleeves will now be knitted. The underarm seams will need to be sewn later to finish the sweater.
(WS) Knit 4, purl 14, slip marker, purl 24 stitches (to second pm), turn, knit back 24 stitches (to first pm). Knit and purl in stockinette stitch for 14 more rows, total of 16 rows. Knit 5 rows of garter stitch for cuff. Bind off. Leave a tail of yarn long enough to seam the sleeve.
Rejoin yarn at same underarm (second pm). Purl 55 stitches (to the fourth pm). Turn and knit back 24 stitches (to third pm). Knit and purl in stockinette stitch another 14 rows, total of 16 rows. Knit 5 rows of garter stitch for cuff. Bind off. Leave a tail of yarn long enough to seam the sleeve.
Rejoin yarn at 4 pm and purl 14 stitches, knit 4 to end round.
Knit across to join fronts and back and work in stockinette stitch with first 4 stitches in beginning of row always knitted and last 4 stitches always knitted. Continue in stockinette stitch for 4 inches. Knit 5 rows of garter stitch. Bind off. Sew seam sleeves of both sleeves together. Sew top of hood together. Weave ends into seams.
Weave any hanging yarn into sweater.
Lightly block and sew 2 buttons on button left from band opposite buttonhole.
Resource
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Mixed-Color-Acrylic-Tiny-Barrel-Pony-Beads-5X3mm-for-Kids-Kandi-Craft/292065506984?hash=item440075f6a8:g:JeAAAOSwHnFVsF0~
https://www.maxiaids.com/wire-loop-needle-threader-pkg-of-10?gclid=Cj0KCQjwlv_XBRDrARIsAH-iRJQJTjGDp9QSztsh59cs2W82SZl_fVkxxdOmgpjFWwFNsuv8uxrP9IMaAsU_EALw_wcB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xl_iGLfr6a4
https://sheeptoshawl.com/stringing-beads-onto-yarn/
https://www.walgreens.com/store/c/g-u-m-eez-thru-floss-threaders-840ri/ID=prod2385-product?ext=gooPLA_-_Personal_Care&ext=gooPLA_-_Personal_Care&pla&adtype=pla&kpid=sku302385&sst=6c5da9f5-ef86-7488-3375-00002f760044
