Rag Dolls

Several years ago I made a few dolls for Rag Dolls 2 Love, Inc. This non-profit company is run by several women who are in Wyoming and Vermont. The company was started so that children who are orphaned, infected by diseases, have lived through natural disasters  or who live in war ravaged countries have this doll for love and comfort.

Specifications for the Dolls

So that all the dolls are somewhat similar, the dolls must be constructed with the exact smile. They must be made of fabric that would yield neutral ethnicity. With neutral ethnicity, they can be shipped to any country or region. Originality is not required nor wanted to make this doll. It is essential that the pattern given on the website not be changed and all directions are followed. It can be made with a solid color fabric or patterned fabric that hints of no ethnicity.

Though you can notice the various sizes of the dolls on their website, they should not vary in size. If the pattern is downloaded from the Rag Dolls 2 Love website correctly to 100%, the doll will be about 20" in length. They speak about this problem on the website.

Partial Shipment for Fall 2015

Why Rag Dolls 2 Love?

When I was researching charity organizations with which to make contributions, I not only chose Project Linus, Warm Up America, Toys for Tots, and Coats for the Children. I also chose Rag Dolls 2 Love. I'm not sure how I found the non-profit organization but it must have shown up when I Googled non-profit organizations.

There were so many big scraps of fabric in Mama's sewing room that needed to be cycled into something meaningful, as well as the many huge  bags of polyester stuffing.  This project fit the cause with the supplies.

First shippment of dolls sent in 2012

Beginning the Project

For several years before and after my retirement I took care of my mother who had COPD and Alzhiemer's. She didn't scream and wail as much if I was in the same room with her.  So I needed to devise a plan which could keep me busy within her eyesight. During this time of the dementia, she lost all patience and knowledge to complete any type of task. She couldn't remember words and lost the ability to knit and crochet. Keeping her occupied was very difficult. Later her doctor said to keep her television on because it might help keep her focused and not yell. Later, that didn't help either.

I devised a plan. I cut out about 25 dolls, using the gigantic hoard of fabric from the sewing room. I didn't have my light box with me, so I used the front glass door to trace the face pattern on the face-body cutouts. I found a small embroidery hoop in the sewing room, along with black and red embroidery thread. While sitting with Mama, I embroidered about 20 of the faces onto the front face-body cutouts. I also have to admit that it helped me stay focused and calm through the yelling, wailing and screaming. It was a diffcult time for everyone involved in her caregiving.

Giving the Rag Doll a Face

The face details do not have to be embroidered. They can be painted on with fabric paint. Charisse Eaves shows how to use paints to make doll faces. Her techniques can be used, but the face on the Rag Doll 2 Love must be the face given on the website Rag Dolls 2 Love. I wouldn't suggest using permanent markers because they may bleed into the fabric and leave fuzzy edges. Be sure to test the markers on fabric before you use them. There are many kinds and brands of fabric markers that can be used. I have used these fabric markers on other projects. Crafting the faces with fabric markers is quick and easy.

First eye finished using the back stitch, then the satin stitch

                       

Eyes finished and the nose being done with the back stitch

The mouth is being completed using red thread and the back stitch.

Finished face -- I like the face design that Rag Dolls 2 Love chose.
You just have to smile when you see it -- each and every time.

 Assembling the Jointed Legs and Arms

The leg and arm cutouts must be sewn together first using a 1/4-inch seam allowance.  I usually do several at one time. They are then turned right side out. I mark where the first joint is and stuff to that point and pin. Since these are for children, I backstitch all seams and joints to keep the stitches from unraveling.

You notice that I don't mark the joint with sewing marking pens. (When quilting and smocking, I like this pen.) I have learned to mark with straight pens and sew through the pens. Using the marking pens is a good option if you can't do the straight pins.

The first three legs have the first joint stitched. The leg on the right is stuffed, pinned
and read to stitch the first joint.

A closer look at the pinned first leg joint.

The hands are stuffed and the hand on the left is pinned for wrist joint.
The hand on the right has the wrist joint sewn.

Using the pattern for location, the wrist and knee joints are stuffed and pinned.

Stuff the last joint and seam the top of each arm and leg.

Arms and legs for two dolls are finished.

Next the arms and legs need to be attached to the inside (right side) of the body on the face side. Using a basting stitch would be ok. Remember that the seam allowance is 1/4-inch. The thumbs point UP -- very important that they get the thumbs up!

The next step is more difficult but not impossible. The body must be assemblied with the arms inside the body. I find it easier to sew one half the body and then stuff the other arm inside and stitch. I find it easier to do a few inches of sewing, put the machine needle down, the arm up and maneuver the dolls body so that I can make the next inch or so of sewing the body.

Seaming the body together with arms inside the body.

When the body is stitched with the arms inside, restitch the neck so that there is a double seam reinforcement. With sharp scissors, carefully clip into the neck, without cutting into the stitches. If you do not cut into the v-stitching close enough, the neck will be puckered.

Clip the loose threads and turn right side out. Notice, you have not yet enclosed the legs to the body. I find it extremely awkward to stuff a leg in the body and stitch. Two arms and a leg inside the body make it almost impossible to stitch the bottom seamWhen I first did that, I spend too much time ripping out. I found another way to do it.

Turn the doll right side out, checking that the arms are inside the seam properly. Many times I have had to rip out the arms if they are puckered. Another way to prevent this is to hand baste the body together but if you are making 10 or more dolls, its going to take a longer time making the dolls.

One important thing to do, though, is to stitch 1/4-inch around the entire bottom of the body, so that you have a vision of where the seam will be.

Stuffing the body though the leg/body opening on right

Notice that the leg and body on the left side have been stitched . Using the stitch line along the body bottom, the fabric edge is folded inside and basted to assure that the leg is properly stitched in. The seam on that leg is machine topstitched, reinforced with backstitching at the beginning and end of stitching. The other leg is not stitched in at this time but is used as the hole for stuffing the body. Once the body is stuffed, baste the body closed, assuring that the leg is properly stitched in. Top stitch as with the first leg. Remove basting.

The rag doll is finished!

Alternate Construction Methods

The photos of the dolls on the website show other methods of construction. Some of the dolls are made completely with exposed seams. I'm not sure how Ral Dolls 2 Love feels about but that must be OK because the "exposed seam dolls" photo is on the home page of the website.

The doll can be made with both arms and legs in the body with part of one of the side seams left open to stuff. This way takes a lot of patience because it is more difficult to do it.

Charity Rag Dolls

If you have a desire to make these dolls for charity, just get started. Another non-profit organization that makes dolls is Dolls for Africa. The rules for making that doll is completely different from the Rag Doll 2 Love but the doll for that project seems to be more simple and easier to make because the legs, arms, head and body are one inclusive complete pattern. Older children are helping to make them. There are patterns for the doll and clothes for the doll at the Dolls for Africa site.

Other non-profit organizations making dolls are The Giving Doll and Feel Better Friends. These organizations seem to want monetary donations or donations of materials for the construction their dolls. I'm sure there are several other important non-profit organizations providing comfort for children.

There are so many ways to help the world be a better place. The calls to help are in your heart. Listen to your heart. Everyone has been given a special talent that should be shared and there are so many opportunities to share those talents.

Disclosure statement: I have not received compensation for any products mentioned or used in this post.

  
Resources:

"Annals of Long-Term Care." The American Geriatrics Society, 28 Feb. 2014. Web. 28 Aug. 2015. <http://www.annalsoflongtermcare.com/news/screaming-dementia-nursing-home>.

"DMC Creative World." Embroidery Stitches. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Aug. 2015. <http://www.dmc-usa.com/Education/How-To/Learn-the-Stitches/Embroidery-Stitches.aspx>.

"Dolls for Africa." Dolls for Africa. Sri Chinmoy, 2006. Web. 28 Aug. 2015. <http://www.dollsforafrica.org/index.html>.

"Dritz Dual Purpose Marking Pen, Blue." Amazon.com:. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Aug. 2015. <http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Dual-Purpose-Marking-Blue/dp/B00A2H1A3W>.

Eaves, Charisse. "Painting Whimsical Cloth Doll Faces Using Paints." YouTube. YouTube, n.d. Web. 28 Aug. 2015. <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISlZHeaxA8w>.

"Rag Dolls 2 Love, Inc." Rag Dolls 2 Love, Inc. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Aug. 2015. <http://ragdolls2love.com/>.

The Cat Quilt Gets A Christmas Makeover

In the late 80's, I needed to change the bedroom scene.  I decided to make a calico quilt.  The main element of the quilt was nine appliqued cats on high quality muslin. Before appliqueing, I applied the cats to the muslin using double sided fusible interfacing.  The double sided fusible interfacing  was used to iron the cats to the muslin, holding them in place before appliqueing.  It was especially needed to keep the tails in place. Using the same procedure, bows were then appliqued on the cats.

All work was done on the sewing machine. Teaching and working a couple other jobs did not allow time for handwork.  After finishing the cats, the cat squares were put together with borders.  Then borders were added to make the quilt full/queen size.  A flowered sheet was used for the back of the quilt.   Borders of coordinated calico fabric were sewn to the sheet, making the quilt reversible. Next,  the two sides were combined with polyester quilt batting between, connecting front to back by stitching through both sides of the border seams.  Then green calico was used to make the final border, covering the front edge, the quilt batting, and the back edge.

After years of using the quilt, washing it, and drying it, the quilt began to show wear.  It began to come apart.  Even some of the fabrics began to thin and were tearing.  It was repaired and some of the worn borders were replaced -- but alas, it was difficult to keep up with the repairs.  It was time to let it go!  Tossing it was out of the question so it got put in a closet.

Then, this Christmas, my daughter said that the baby needed a Christmas stocking.  Memories -- she still uses the stocking which was provided by the hospital in 1973.  The Junior League in Sanford, NC made stockings of red and white flannel.  They were made so that a  "Christmas baby" could fit inside them.  The front closed with ribbons and bells, which were attached to the ribbons.  She arrived home in that stocking on Christmas Eve and was the best Christmas present ever!

Ginny, 3 days old,  in her Christmas stocking.  

Ah,  the cat quilt could be used to make Christmas stockings.  After pondering about a week, the research for patterns and instructions began.  A pattern was found, but no instructions for using the quilt.  So, guessing how to do it and guessing what was needed, the materials were gathered.

Materials needed to make the stockings:

1. The quilt
2. Fabric for making the cuff and the optional outside pocket
3. Thread
4. Interfacing (to give body to the cuff if needed)
5. Coordinated colored ribbon of choice
6. Bells (can find them at craft stores)
7. Toy for pocket (optional)
8. Jumprings added later to the list (suggested by daughter)

Step 1. I found a basic pattern. The pattern wasn't exactly what I needed so I used it, making revisions.  Notice the brown pattern patterns, with revisions.  Notice the brown pattern with fold.  That was needed so I didn't have to cut up an appliqued cat.  Now the fun begins.

patterns and altered pattterns

pattern adjusted for fold

Step 2. I decided to use a cat for the first stocking.  I cut the cat with the stocking pattern on the fold.  I layed the pattern on a cat, trying to find the best fit.  I was disappointed that the front of the stocking needs to be curved and the cat doesn't seem to fit on the curve without making adjustments to the cat.  That I didn't choose to do.   It was too large to fit on the front. ( I might try it again by using a larger stocking pattern.)  I cut the muslin square with the folded pattern trying to get the pattern as symmetric as possible.  The worse part was over; I finally cut into that quilt! (sob)

Step 3. The next part was to pin the quilt so that the front and back do not come apart.  Then I zigzagged the edges together.  Another reason to do that is that it keeps the inside of the stocking neat. If the stocking should have to be washed, it won't fray or come apart inside, either.  Then, fold the stocking on the fold with right sides together and stitch around the stocking, leaving the top opened.

Folded and stitched
and turned right side out

Pinned

zigzagged

Step 4. The next step is to put the bells on the ribbon.  The first time I did this, I found it very easy to do.  The bells were bells that I bought in the 70's from Ben Franklin, which was on Falls of the Neuse Road in Raleigh.  (It is no longer there.)   Those small bells had large eyes on the top and the ribbon was very easy to pull through and knot.  That is not the case for the new bells I bought.  I had to sew the bells on the knot, which I didn't find as nice.  I checked Michaels, AC Moore, and Joann's and none had small bells in which the ribbon could be pulled through the eye. I tried opening the eyes a little with needle-nosed pliers but the eyes broke.  Drats!  "Time changes everything"-  sometimes good, sometimes not so good.  Then, my daughter told me to try jumprings.  Looked in my jewelry making supplies.  Bingo -- great idea, it works.  Apply the jumpring to the eye of the jingle bell; then, pull and knot the ribbon through the jumpring.  The bells even jingle more using jumprings!

Bells tied to ribbon

Attaching cuff and bells

Step 5. For the cuff or top of the stocking, I used red fabric that I had on-hand.  I used the stocking top pattern, cutting it on the fold, the side where the arrow is on the pattern.  Turn the cuff right side out, and sew the side seam opposite the fold, so that a complete circle is formed.  With right sides facing, pin the cuff to the stocking matching the seams.  Find suitable places for the ribboned bells and pin between the cuff and stocking with ribbon below the pin. (This is important;  otherwise, the bells will be inside the cuff.)

Step 6. Next, before sewing the cuff on the stocking, a loop is needed to hang the stocking.  I like to use the same fabric as the cuff, but ribbon could be used.  Cut a strip double the width you want the loop.  Fold fabric horizontally, pin and stitch.  Turn right side out.  Press the strip with the seam inside or on the outside of the loop.  I like to press the seam on the inside so that the seam isn't seen.  Fold the loop in half and place on the seam of the stocking between the stocking and the cuff.

Loop pinned between stocking
and cuff at seam

Loop pinned

I didn't use interfacing in the stocking cuff, but found that the stocking looks better with it.  When making the next stockings, I will baste interfacing on the cuff before sewing the seam. This should be done at step 5.

Interfacing pinned to
wrong side of cuff

interfacing based on cuff and seam
of cuff is sewn

                                               






Step 7.  When I sewing the cuff to the stocking, I have a machine that lets me remove the platform and slip the sewing project into the arm.  It certainly makes the sewing easier.  After sewing the cuff, to the stocking, remove the pins.  I then like to press the cuff on the right side to make it smooth to sew.  Normally, I would trim the seam at this time, but because it is an "abused" quilt, I did not.  At this step, a 1/4 in hem can be made to the cuff that is being sewn to the inside.  Turn the cuff so that half the cuff is outside and half is inside.  Pin the cuff to the inside.

Step 8.  Sewing in the seam, if possible, stitch the cuff on the outside.  Why, the outside and not the inside of the stocking?  If you sew on the inside, the stitches may not be neat on the outside.  Another way to solve that problem, is to baste the cuff inside catching the cuff to the seam, then sew on the outside.  Another way, handstitch the cuff on the inside.  Remember, children may be using the stocking, and hand stitching may not be as sturdy.  Once the inside seam is handstitched, the outside seam of the cuff could be stitched.  This seam stitching, also, reinforces the ribbon and the loop.

Sewing cuff on outside seam

The stocking is now finished and ready to hang.  The pictures show the both sides of the stocking.

There is still more to do because this stocking is not really appropriate for a little boy.  So I start again.
This time I use the pattern as is, and cut the fabric from the border of the quilt.  Notice there is no fold on this pattern so the stocking is stitched entirely around the stocking.

 Making the Pocket

Before stitching, I put a pocket on one side of the stocking.  I pre-shrunk  fabric I found appropriate for a boy, which turned out to be green stripe. I also make the hanging loop green stripe.  This is one way (and not the only way) to sew a pocket on the stocking, giving it room to hold items. Now, I forgot to take pictures of the green stripe pocket, so I made the pocket again, using the red strip -- just in case you are confused.

Step 1.  Cut a rectangle out of fabric.  The size should look appropriate on the stocking.  Add about an inch horizontally and vertically to allow for hems and pleats (a).  Make a hem on all sides by pressing 1/4 fabric on all sides (b).

Step 1b

Step 1a

Step 2.  At the top, fold down another 1/2 inch and press.  At the top of the pocket, topstitch across the top of the pocket on the thickest folded edge.

Step 2

Step 3.  At the bottom and top of the pocket, pin a 1/4 to 1/2-in pleat on each side of the pocket.  The size depends on the size of the pocket and the stocking. Place the pocket on the stocking 

and pin to hold in place (a).  Pin to stocking to create placement of the sides of the pocket (b). (This top pleat will be removed later to give fullness to the top of pocket.) 

Step 3a

Step 3b

Step 4.   Pen the inside of the pleats to the stocking at the four positions so that the pleat can be freed, making sure that the sides of the pocket remain in place (a).  Attach additional pins to keep the sides in place while stitching the sides (b).

Step 4a

Step 4b

Step 5.  At this step, "rectangles" will be sewn as reinforcement at the top corners.  Starting about 1/4-inch opposite the side edge (at the stitching made at the top of the pocket), stitch toward the top fold (a).  At the fold lift the presser bar lever , pivot the pocket, with needle down in the pocket fabric; then, stitch the top fold sewing toward the side edge (b).  Pivot again with the needle in the pocket fabric, and sew the rest of the edge to the bottom of pocket (c).  At the bottom edge, press the reverse button or lever and sew a few stitches to reinforce the stitching (d).  Begin at step 5a, and sew the other side using the same instructions. Do not sew across the bottom of the pocket yet.

Step 5a

Step 5b





            

    

Step 5d

Step 5c

 






                           

Step 6.  In the next step, repin the BOTTOM pleats back in place (a).   Sew the bottom of the pocket, backstitching before and after stitching the bottom of pocket (b).

Step 6a

Step 6b

Lion Stocking

My daughter liked the "Lion Stocking" but she wanted a bigger stocking for my grandson.  (Remember she grew up with that big red and white stocking hanging on the mantel   -- and she can tell you a story about how I filled it.)  The stocking pattern was used.  It was cut down the center vertically and the two sections were taped 3-inches apart.  The pocket was cut wider but not longer.

pattern cut for larger stocking 

bigger stocking side 2

bigger stocking side 1

Gingerbread Man Stocking